The Truth About Parrots

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A Caique Owners Shopping List

Bringing home baby, and wondering what accessories are essential for your new fids well being? Well, we have got the perfect list to compliment your shopping spree. Straight from the recommendations of caique owners are some tried-and-trues, accessories and must-haves. We’ve got your back (and your fids, too).

Must Haves

The cage- this is the most important aspect of your birds environment and one that needs to the most consideration. Powdercoating or stainless steel finish depends on your budget, but no matter the finish, when looking at a cage conside the various aspects. Cage size is recommended at 24 by 36, with less then one inch bar spacing. Cages that open at the top are not recommended, and look for cages that have parallel bars so your bird can easily navigate. The author of this article prefers flat top cages, but it all boils down to personal preference. Food and water dishes that are extended outside of the cage (giving more room within the inside of the cage) are recommended.

Perches- a minimum of 5 is recommended. Choose different textures, shapes, and sizes, to give your bird a variety of to perch upon. Caiques like to chew and shred, so natural branches that have bark attached are recommended so the bird can take joy in stripping the perch of its bark. Cholla perches, that are made of a natural cactus material, area also enjoyed. Slick perches like manzanita and dragonwood are not encouraged. Rope perches are a favorite amoung caiques, as they can bounce and play, chew and rub on the soft cotton material.

Food Dishes- stainless steel or ceramic are encouraged. Purchase an extra set so that you can throw the dirty ones in the dishwasher and still have a clean set on hand. Stainless steel dishes are often sold as ‘coop cups’ and can be purchased to fit your already existing food dish holder, or come with their own attachment so the cups can be placed stratigically within the cage. Caiques have a tendency to enjoy tipping over their food dish, so consider a dish such as the Quick Loc Crock, which literally locks in place.

Toys- Caiques love playing with toys- thats a fact. The brighter, the bolder, the noiser- the better. Quick hint- check out the baby section of your local discount store. Hard plastic keys, teething rings, and rattles are bird safe and caique fun. Tried and true bird toys include the shreddable Parrot Pinatas, the mind bending Crazy Leather Box, or the chewable Brainiac block. All of these toys challange your birds skills and increase activity while eleviating boredum. The recommended number of toys is no less then 5 at one time in the birds cage. With a caique, the more, the better, so don’t be stingy when it comes to play items.

Emergency Medical Kit - If your bird breaks a blood feather, bangs a toenail, or injuries himself in any way, you want to be prepared. Accidents to happen, and caiques seem to be especially accident prone. A good basic medical kit will include self adhering gauze (vetwrap is a popular choice), clean gauze, tweezers, hemostats, a pair of sharp scissors, antibiotical cream, and a heat pack. Many different types of medical kits are included, and the more comprehensive ones contain everything from emergency handfeeding formula to forms that include your vets contact information.

Accessories

The Water Bottle- Caiques are bird chef wanna-be’s. Their specialty? Parrot stew. Whatever can go in the pot- er, in this cage, water dish- will. It can make providing a clean source of water frustrating at times. Especially when you go to change the water and you wonder why how on earth it turned a bright blue color, and what the heck are those floatie things? Trust me, you don’t want to ask questions. Some caiques, intelligent as they may be, don’t seem to realize that dunking that big chunk of brightly colored wood in the water doesn’t make the wood any easier to chew. There is a solution- water bottles. A water bottle can be hung, providing your pet with a constant source of fresh water, even if he has turned the once clean bowl of water into something less then delightful. When purchasing a water bottle, the recommended ones are made of glass (shy away from think plastic ones) and have stainless steel spouts and outfittings. Lixit brand are highly recommended.

The Snuggle Buddy- while this is the name of an actual product, in this article we referr to snuggle buddy as anything that your bird likes to sleep next/in at night. Most caiques enjoy having a ‘happy hut’ type of tent to sleep in at night. There are a variety of tents and huts available for purchase. Looks for one made of long last material such as fleece, with the hanging attachments made of something similiar to plastic chain link. Otherwise the attachments that hold the hut to the cage can be easily chewed through by a bored bird. Other snuggle materials can include fleece swings, large cotton rope toy for the bird to snuggle, and other like materials.

Foraging system- Foraging is an important part of your birds wild, natural behavior. While we highly encourage a foraging model feeding system, because this theory and research is still relatively new and maintstream, we are categorizing a foraging system as an ‘accessory’ rather then an immediatly required part of your birds environment. Creative Foraging Systems is a new company that has a fantastic line of feeders and toys that are perfect for caiques. Allowing your bird to work for their food lets them re-create natural behavior that can potentially curb future behavioral issues. You have many options and choices when it comes to foraging, but we most highly recommend a foraging system as a main feeder, and an accessory like the ever popular Crazy Maze as a supplimental item.

In Conclusion

This is just a sampling of items that can be purchased for your bird, and come highly recommended by owners. Look for other articles that include indepth product reviews, food recommendations, playgym accomodations, and much more.

Rescue VS Purchase VS Adoption

For some time now, there has been a debate going on about the true meaning behind these three common terms that we hear so often. “I rescued Fido from a pet store” is the general statement that leaves people shrugging their shoulders and asking, “come again?”. You hear the terms rescue, adoption, and purchase, used almost interchangeably these days. What do they really mean?

Rescue is defined as “to free or deliver from confinement, violence, danger, or evil.”  The term ‘rescue’ means to save a bird or other animal, from dire conditions that were hazardous to the animal and/or life threatening. Case in point:, Molly, from Parrot Hope Sanctuary. “Molly is a seven year-old green winged macaw. She was left behind in deplorable conditions, a mobile home that had been repossessed that the owners decided to trash on the way out, as they left their parrot behind. Molly went countless days with absolutely no food and water. Neighbors, who could hear Molly screaming, were unsure what to do to help. Finally, they made contact with Parrot Hope Sanctuary, who worked with local authorities to help rescue Molly. Molly was suffering from starvation and kidney failure due to malnutrition.”

Adoption is defined as “To take into one’s family through legal means and raise as one’s own child.” (substitute child for ‘bird’). When speaking of’ adopting a parrot, this normally refers to going through a rescue organization, choosing a bird, going through the necessary procedures, and filling out legal documents transferring the ownership of the bird from the organization to you. Adoption can also refer to the rehoming of a parrot via a private party. Adoptions normally include an ‘adoption fee’, which is a small fee that covers any medical treatment the bird has received while in temporary care, or reimbursement for food items and/or enrichment. The adoption fee should never exceed the original cost of the bird as a weaned baby. If one pays the ‘full price’ for an older parrot, this is to be considered as the ‘reselling’ of the animal, which is generally frowned upon.

Purchase is referred to when someone pays retail price for an animal from a pet store, or private individual (such as a breeder). When someone comments that they have “rescued” an animal from a pet store- it normally translates into what the animal lover community calls a pity buy. A pity buy is when a human sees an animal in conditions they deem as ‘unfit’ in a retail setting, and to take the animal away from those conditions, they purchase the animal. There can be legitimate cases of rescue from a store, but normally such actions are classified as adoption or purchase.
So the next time you hear someone say they ‘adopted Fluffy”, ask what that really means. If you are dealing with a behavioral problem, this can be crucial. Adoptions, purchases, and rescues all come from vastly different backgrounds, and pinning down the source of the birds previous living arrangements can help unlock any behavioral (or otherwise) difficulty the owner is encountering. And, as always, educate. Encourage people to use the proper terminology when referring to their animals past history.

Foot Toys

If you are new to birds, you may be asking, what is a foot toy? Or perhaps you are just wondering why it would benefit your bird to offer them a so called ‘foot toy’, when they have plenty of hanging toys available already. Foot toys are beneficial in many ways, including helping exercise the birds dexterity, strengthen foot and leg muscles, increase mobility, and add to their sensory palette.

Foot toys are small, brightly colored, and often multi-textured toys that are free form, meaning they are not hung in the cage. They are meant to be picked up by your bird, and manipulated using feet and beak. Many birds enjoy having an array of foot toys so that they can rummage around and choose which they would like to play with. Caiques, macaws, and cockatoos are especially well known for their fondness for toys they can manually manipulate. It is said that the smaller birds like parrotlets, budgies, and cockatiels, do not use foot toys and perhaps don’t have the dexterity to use such a toy, but some owners report their birds do (although infrequently) use foot toys.

Foot toys come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and colors. Some are indestructible, while others are easily destroyed. You can get foot toys in natural materials, such as hemp and other fibers, and in other forms such as: plastic, wood, paper, wicker, stainless steel, pvc, and much more. These toys can range from suiting the purpose of shredding, chewing, foraging, or intellectual.

How to Choose the Right Toy

There are so many choices, at first glance the thought of narrowing down to just a couple toys may be dizzying. Or even frustrating. When purchasing foot toys, consider your parrot. Does your parrot like to chew, shred, or otherwise tear apart its playthings? Is your parrot beaky, enjoying manipulating items. Or perhaps your bird is really into working for his food. If your bird is a shredder, a toy that can be easily destroyed will deliver the most bang for your buck. If your bird prefers to manipulate items, look for a foot toy that is not so easily destroyed, and has moveable parts. If your bird enjoys working for his food, consider a toy that you can incorporate into your birds foraging program. Some of my birds favorite foot toys include stuffed wicker balls, plastic whiffle balls stuffed with cotton rope, or with a bell inside.

Foot toys don’t have to be expensive, either. Keep in mind when buying the toy that the toy will be dropped, thrown, dragged along, dunked, and generally abused. Will the toy hold up to your birds beak, much less being dropped from the top of the cage? If your bird is hard on toys, lean towards a foot toy that is made of a sturdier material. If your bird isn’t rough-and-tumble, you can start out with slightly less tough materials, like wicker. Remember to purchase the toy(s) with your birds size in mind. Don’t buy the largest available, just because your bird is ‘large’. Consider whether or not your bird will be able to lift the toy and easily manipulate it.

Foot Toys Don’t Have To Be Expensive

Just because its a ‘toy’ doesn’t mean it has to be expensive. My birds enjoying playing with bottle caps, pen caps, and large Marbella beads. Drilled baby blocks threaded with a scrap piece of leather can also provide entertainment. Save those parts from the toys your bird destroys, and use them to make foot toys that your bird can enjoy. If you find your bird likes a particular foot toy you purchased, buy in bulk. Foot toys often come in small packages of two or three, in addition to being sold individually. Buy a couple of the toy to have on hand, once the first (or second, or third) is destroyed.
Go Shop
Start the search for that perfect toy, and have fun. Remember that some birds may be hesitant of foot toys at first, but that’s OK. They will get used to the (odd to them) site of the toy laying in the cage, and eventually begin to play. Introduce the toy(s) slowly, if your bird is on the timid side. Don’t introduce too many at once. Start small and if your bird needs a bigger size, work your way up to the larger size gradually.
Happy shopping!

Do Birds Really Need Grit?

Lately there has been some debate going on as to whether or not parrots are in need of grit. This is a common question of concern to bird owners, as well as a source of disagreement. Understanding what grit is, the purpose, and the possible problems that could result from its use, can help you, the reader, make an educated decision on whether or not to offer it to your bird.
The Purpose of Grit
“Grit is used by birds to aid in digestion of seeds” is a sentence seen over and over again, in both outdated parrot care books, or other related texts. What this sentence fails to convey, is that grit is used by birds to aid in the digestion of whole, intact seeds. Birds digestive enzymes work amazingly well in digesting the inner portion of the seeds, but can have difficulty in breaking down the hull (which is the fibrous outer coating).  Grit, in the avian ventriculus, aids in grinding and wearing away the outer shell of the seeds, enabling the digestive enzymes to reach the nutrients within the inner portion of the seed.
What Exactly Is Grit?
The term grit is often loosely used and not entirely explained. There are two groups of substances that go by the name of grit- soluble and insoluble. Insoluble grit, as the type that is being discussed here, is composed of minute substances such as sandstones and other minerals often found in dirt and clays. Insoluble grit cannot be digested and will ermine in the body until expelled.
Soluble grit is organic, and can include crushes shells – often oyster shells- or cuttlebone. Since soluble grit is mostly calcium carbonate, it is easily digested by the acids found in the proventriculus and poses little danger of accumulating in the digestive system. However, while soluble grits can offer an alternative source of calcium, it does little in actually aiding the digestion of seeds.
Do Birds Really Require Grit?
In the United States, the general consensus seems to be a hearty ‘no’. The purpose of grit is to remove the outer coatings of whole seeds, so it seems reasonable to ascertain that only birds which consume seeds intact, such as doves, require grit in their diet. Birds such as parrots, and even finches and canaries, hull their seeds, therefore not needing the extra aid that grit would provide. In fact, some species of parrots have ridges on the inside portion of their upper beak that is believed to aid in the shelling of seeds. The seed is held in place by the ridges, while the lower beak is used to crack and remove the hull. Birds on a pelleted diet should also not require grit. In the US, the use of grit is generally discouraged, especially if offered freely, which may lead to obstructive gastritis. Although in Australia, grit is commonly given to pet birds, and few problems have been reported. As of the writing of this article, there is no explanation for these interesting geographical differences.

Potential Problems
If given freely, some birds may over-consume grit products, leading to a possibility of impaction. It is also recommended to check the contents of any commercially made and purchased grit mixtures, as some may contain charcoal. Charcoal can affect the absorption of vitamins, resulting in deficiencies.
In conclusion; the benefit of grit for parrots and softbills has not been positively demonstrated. Potential risks have been observed, as well as potential health benefits. If offered at all, we recommend offering it in moderation.

Debunking of the article ‘Bird Marts- The single greatest threat to avian health’

There has been an article circulating the internet for some time now, which essentially bashes what is very commonplace in the bird world- bird marts. This article makes very dangerous claims that have raised the hackles of many avian enthusiasts today. The subjects swabbed eight different events across the country for disease at such bird events. The author claims that the goal of the testing “was to be able to demonstrate these problems exist universally throughout the US” and lists the results of the events. All records listed claim that the events tested yielded positive results for two or more major diseases. The article then goes on to continually bash anyone who participates in such events, even go so far as to conclude that “The potential for generating and spreading fatal avian diseases is unsurpassed anywhere in the world as it is at ‘bird mart’ type events. We have not found a single ‘bird event’ free of these diseases…. it is unconscionable to believe that:
·    anyone who cares for birds would hold any event where young birds are present for display or sale.
·    anyone would attend any event to purchase items for birds
·    any person would ever attend any event with such a high degree of fatal organisms waiting to be transmitted to healthy birds.
·    anyone would support or recommend any such event. ”

Such bold, brass, statements leave me reeling every time I read this article- and I have gone over it many times! In all fairness to such ‘bird events’, let’s discuss the many aspects not included in the article, and why such statements should be made with caution.
Issue #1- “These events have risen to become the single greatest threat to bird health we have ever encountered.”
The above statement is bold one. It’s enough to strike fear into any bird owners heart. The last thing we wish to do is track home communicable diseases that could make our birds sick, and potentially transmitted to our entire flock. What this statement does not include is several key elements. Who backs this statement that marts are the single greatest threat we have ever encountered? Are there statistics to back up this so called data? How many birds a year are victim of disease brought home from a mart? Why target just marts? Bird marts are not the only places where people can go and interact with birds, food, and supplies, in an open area. Bird stores that have live stock are the same, and there are even tourist attractions that mimic the atmosphere of a mart or show. In Miami, Florida, Parrot Jungle comes to mind. One can pay an admission fee (like a mart), walk through the many rows of birds that are out on stands and in habitats (like a mart). You can interact with some of the birds by feeding them, holding them, or even taking a picture with them (like a mart). Parrot Mountain in Tennessee is the same way. So why single out marts? There are many other venues that have the possibility to be just as dangerous, if not more.

Issue #2 - the tests and subsequent results

The article makes the bold claim that “our goal was to be able to demonstrate these problems exist universally.”, and presents the results in a tabled fashion. Unfortunately, there are so many holes in the information presented its next to impossible to be able to grasp the entire picture. The article claims that eight events were tested, and swabbed for the following diseases: PBFD, Polyoma, and Chlamydia. In each event, two out of 3 diseases yielded positive results. What the article fails to say is how exactly the areas were tested. Was each area tested multiple times, in case of a false positive? Exact dates and locations are not listed, only month and year. The testing started in 1998, and ended in 2000, according to the so called study. Did the testing method vary at all? Were multiple swabs taken and tested by a panel of certified avian veterinarians, to ensure that a full spectrum study was carried out?
Unfortunately, so much as the text of the article reveals, none of the above questions can be answered. One question that lingers in my mind, is that; if there was such a high case of disease, were the venues notified so they could be properly disinfected? Interestingly, some of the test results report positives from a ‘reptile exhibitor’. Seeing as how reptiles are not birds, and therefore have different diseases that live on them (case in point, salmonella and turtles,) are those results an accurate reflection of true avian diseases? Another burning question I have is as to where these tests were taken, specifically. The claim to ‘demonstrate these problems exist universally’ cannot be supported. Eight tests in eight locations is a small number in comparison to the number of events and locations that take place each year. Because no information was given as to where the tests were conducted, it can only leave us to wonder if all these events happened in the same state or within the same area. If this is true, then the results yielded would be inconclusive as it would be a contained breakout and not one that people nationally must be concerned about.
Issue #2- the time period
Whenever someone brings this article to my attention (as it is on a semi regular basis, such is the internet age), the first thing I question is if this information is even relevant anymore. Why do I wonder this? Because all of this information was collected and presented eight years ago. While eight years doesn’t appear to be a long time in the past, with the rapid way we are embracing technology to learn more about our avian friends, eight years can be a lifetime. Eight years ago, we knew a lot less about food, diet, nutrition, Vitamin D synthesis, and viruses (just to name a few) then we do today. In this day and age we are armed with information that can overrule previously believed and carried out bird keeping practices. In eight years, leaps and bounds has been made with diseases such as Polyoma, PDD, and Aspergilliousis. Case in point is the statement made by the article author “Some exhibitors proudly display signs stating that their birds are protected by a Polyoma vaccine. Whether or not the vaccine offers any protection from Polyoma is still up for debate…”. Such a statement is a true sign of the times. Nowadays, it is the norm to vaccinate all chicks for polyoma, and species such as caiques that are more susceptible to the diseases are required to have the vaccination, because it is proven to be effective.
Issue #3 - incomplete study
The statement that winds up the article is one that boldly proclaims “We have not found a single bird event free of these diseases!”. Again, I must reiterate. Only eight events were tested. The testing stopped in the year 2000 and only spanned a period of study lasting two years. How many events have gone, during and since the period of testing? One can only guess. I have attended several bird events, including actual bird shows, marts (with vendors), and roundtables. Many event curators now are starting to understand the worry of disease, and taking many precautions to prevent the spread of pathogens. The last mart I attended personally, all birds that were in the area had been tested only days before by a certified avian veterinarian, and were given a clean bill of health. If they did not vet check well, they were not allowed on the premises. While this is not the case for every event I have attended, it is certainly becoming more the norm.
Be Smart
Don’t let such articles keep you at home, worrying about potential diseases you could bring back to your pet bird. Anytime you enter into a store that carries live stock, go to a friend’s house that has birds, or even attend a bird club meeting, you are entering into a scenario where there would be disease. That doesn’t mean you can’t take proper precautions. Whenever entering into an event, taking the following precautions will help keep your household happy and healthy.
·    Don’t buy supplies that are unwrapped or cannot be disinfected (eg leather products, edible products) from any source that contains live stock. This goes for stores, educational venues, and marts/shows/etc. Always buy items that are sealed, and/or can be easily disinfected.
·    If you interact with other animals, be sure to sanitize properly before going and interacting with your animals at home. If going out to an event, wear older clothes that you can change out of upon arriving home. Wash your hands thoroughly before touching your birds.
·    Wear an old pair of shoes. Its been suggested that a number of pathogens are tracked in on the bottom of shoes. Wear an old pair of shoes to any such event, and remove them before walking into your house.
·    Play it safe. If you are at an event, ask to see the health certificate of the birds you interact with. Perhaps inquire if there was any required testing for the birds that are on display. When were they tested, and what were they tested for?
·    Avoid bulk bins

Bird marts, fairs, and other venues can be very educational experiences for bird owners from all walks of life. Taking the proper precautions can help make these events a fun and stress free time.

Finding a quality bird cage

Are you in need of a new bird cage? Cage shopping can be overwhelming, frustrating, and time consuming. There are so many brands and models to choose from, not to mention all the little things you have to consider: bar spacing, cage size, cage model, cage brand, just to name a few. There are so many options out there, how can you ever narrow it done?
First, decide what you want the cage for. Is it a permanent residence? A travel carrier? Next, consider the size of the bird that will inhabit the cage. If it is a travel cage, you can certainly go smaller then what is the norm. Let’s assume for the sake of this article that the cage is a permanent residence. Rule of thumb is that the cage must be wide enough for the bird to stretch its wings out fully, without getting tangled in the bars. Ideally the cage should also be double the height of the bird. Of course, for a smaller species, this could lead to the conclusion that you can get away with a fairly small cage. This is an untruth. Don’t forget, not only the bird will be in the cage, but multiple perches, toys, a food and water dish, as well as some form of Happy Hut for the bird to roost at night.

Next, consider your budget. Do you have enough to pay full retail price of the cage, or are you looking for something a little cheaper? Lets lay out our options.
Cheapest

• Craigslist is a great resource to search for a gently used cage at a heavily discounted price
• Hoobly is another online source for gentle used, or sometimes even new, cages
• Your local newspaper classifieds

Cheaper

• Ebay is a great place to find gently used, or more likely, new cages at discounted prices from individual vendors
• Scritches.com is a bird oriented bidding site. Sometimes with their supplies its hit and miss

Moderate

• Bird-cages.com has great prices on brand new cages
• Buying directly from the manufacturers, such as hqbirdcages.com and aecageco.com is also a cheaper alternative then buying from your local store.

If you purchase a gentle used cage, be sure to check that the powder coating is in good shape, and disinfect the cage thoroughly with a mild bleach (or other disinfectant) solution before beginning to set it up for its new inhabitant. If the powder coating is not in the greatest shape, you can contact your local motorcycle repair shop and enquire as to the cost of re-powder coating a cage. You may be pleasantly surprised at how economical it is! I’ve heard of people being able to re-coat a cage for fifty dollars or less.
Hit up your local yard sales as well. You may be surprised at what you find! Whatever venue you choose, be patient. You will find the right cage! Happy shopping.

Cage Liners- The Good, The Bad, and the… Just Really, Really, Bad

This question always seems to pop up when bird enthusiasts just get started in the care and keeping of their feathered friends. What cage liner is best to use? What is the cheapest method, and which is the safest? There are so many products (some misleading) that it can certainly lead you in obscure, not to mention, potentially hazardous, directions. Let’s separate the fact from the fiction.
When first deciding what sort of liner to use, consider your cage. Is the tray an odd shape? Does your cage have a grate to prevent your bird from tracking around the bottom? Can the bird reach the bottom, even with the grate? The answers to these questions will help determine which sort of liner is best suited for your situation. You want to pick a liner that can be easily examined, as a change in your birds droppings can be an indicator of illness. You want to choose a product that will make it easy to see the consistence, color, shape, and number of droppings. You also want a liner that will be easy to maintain, and will not allow droppings, water, or other messy substances to permeate and cause potential mold issues.
Common beddings on the market nowadays include:
Corn Cob Bedding while often marketed for pets and birds in particular, it can cause more hazard then harm. Because it is so absorbent, it can easily mold. The dust that comes along with the corn cob also has the potential to create respiratory issues in sensitive birds. If you bird has any access to his cage bottom at all, corn cob can pose a hazard if your bird accidentally ingests any of it.
Walnut Shells are another bedding type that is easy to come by, and at one time or another has been recommended as OK for birds. Walnut shells when eaten can irritate and inflame organs, causing discomfort, or even internal damage. Walnut shells are not recommended for avians.
Cedar Shavings can contain ingredients and natural oils that are toxic to birds. Their thick aroma can cause respiratory discomfort, causing allergic symptoms and irritation of the digestive track. Any sort of shaving is also not ideal for ‘broody’ or ‘nesty’ female birds.
Pine Shavings unlike cedar are not toxic and quite often used as nesting material for birds. We suggest using pine shavings for nesting material, but not a cage birds normal liner for the cage. Shavings can increase hormonal before for female parrots especially if they can have access to the shavings. If eaten, crop impaction is another concern. If your bird is a bather, shavings are not recommended as they can easily harvest mold.
Kitty Litter I’ve heard of few owners using kitty litter in the bottom of the birds cage. The dust factor that is associated with litter alone makes using kitty litter a huge issue. Clumping litter contains ingredients to make the litter swell, sometimes to ten times its normal size, so if ingested it poses a huge health hazard to your bird.
Paper Products is the seemingly all around winner when it comes to cage liners. Easy to come by (I’ve heard owners getting their paper from neighbors, buying end rolls from their local newspaper, and everything in between!) Newspaper is probably the most commonly used liners. In the US, all newspapers use a soy based ink, so its safe for your bird in case it has access to the bottom of his cage. Actually, soy based ink is said to have antibacterial properties, so it’s a healthy way to line your cage and ward off unwanted bacteria. It also has a slim risk for molding, and is easy to clean.
Cage Catchers another bird safe alternative on the market that have recently been getting a lot of praise. They are lightly waxed, custom sized pieces of paper sold in sheets the size of your choice. A wallet friendly alternative to paper, they make cleaning your cage easy and pain free. Cage Catchers, like paper, harbor little possibility for mold and give little opportunity for unwanted bacteria to fester.
Whatever you decide to use, please just make sure what you use is safe for your bird. We’ve heard owners using just about everything in their cages- from paper towels, to aluminum foil (a big no!), to fleece that is swapped out and washed daily. Whatever fits your cage, your budget, and your bird is what will be best for you! We recommend going to cage-catchers.com to check out their product line, or contacting your local newspaper to see if you can strike a bargain for their recyclables, or even the end rolls.

Boarding Your Bird

The holiday season is a time for travel, and for pet owners that can be especially stressful. Finding kennels for cats and dogs is relatively easy, but one that specialized in birds? One that will recognize the importance of the seemingly small details that is so critical to good bird care? Thinking about it is enough to make you pull your hair out! Not to fret, while it can be a seemingly overwhelming burden, there is hope. There are many options to choose from. There are several in house petsitting services that have avian knowledge, as well as boarding at a facility set up specifically for avians, boarding at the vets, or even entrusting your bird to a friend while on holiday.

If hiring a professional pet sitting service to come into your home and care for your animals, consider a few things.

- Is the business/professional licensed
- Is the business/professional bonded and/or insured?
- What prior experience with avians does the caretaker have?

Getting recommendations from other bird owners is a good way to start the search for a professional sitter. You can also use online resources such as the website for the National Associate of Petsitters, located at www.petsitters.org to find a petsitter in your area that meets your requirements. Many sitters also re-arrange a pre-meeting so they can come to your house, meet with you, and you can review how they interact with your animals. If you hire through an agency, make sure the agency is in good standing with your local and state agencies. Be sure you get a signed contract of services rendered, and explains clearly what liability the company/agency will take if unexpected accidents happen in your absence.

For whatever venue you choose to board your bird while you are away, be sure to ask the caretaker of the bird questions such as the following to ensure the health and happiness of your pets.

- What type of training do you have?
- Do you have previous experience caring for exotics & avians?
- How many other pet sitting obligations will the sitter during the period they will have your pet(s) under their care?
- Can the employee provide references?
- What precautions will the sitter take to prevent the transmission of diseases?
- How many times a day will they come to your home, and how much time will they spent at each visit?
- Will the interact with the bird, clean the cage, etc
- What is the cost of each service?
- Are they willing to cook food for your bird, or will all supplies have to be prepared in advance?

You want to also touch base with the employee and find out how knowedgeable they are about your specie(s) of bird(s). If they have general knowledge, it may be a good idea to send home some literature so that you ensure they will will know the differences in species and the different care each species may require. A lesson on how to properly handle the bird would be important as well. Be sure to leave a large flyer in an easy to locate place- the fridge, for instance, detailing the emergency contact numbers, your number, alternate number, and avian vet number for in case of emergency.

Good luck in your search for the ideal petsitter. While the search may be harder then expected, the reward of leaving with peace of mind that your pet is safe will make your vacation all the better. Happy travels!

Winter and Your Bird

As the winter weather approaches, we get a lot of questions regarding keeping your bird warm. How to do it safely? Whats the ideal temperature to keep your pet parrot at? Can I use a spaceheater? We want to address all these concerns, and more.

As soon as the temperature starts dropping, my heat bill starts going up. When the heat bill goes up, I add an extra layer of clothing and turn the thermostate down to save some money on the heat bill. But what about the animals? My cats have thick fur coats, they’ll be ok. But parrot feathers don’t seem exactly warm, do they? Since I have caiques and other south american species, I looked up the average temperature for their natural region. I found that the weather the wild birds acclimate to is 55 - 64 degrees Fahrenheit. Since my birds are indoor pets, I don’t have to worry about dropping the temperature down that low. I keep my thermostate at about 68 degrees during the day, and drop it down another notch at night. I do cover my birds at night in the winter months, to help with added warmpth and keep off any air that may be blowing on them from when the heater kicks on.

If you still don’t feel comfortable with your bird at cooler temperatures, thre are other alternatives. Heated perches are very popular. They are fitted so that the cord stays outside of the cage, and the perch heats up slightly to provide a warm place for your bird to roost. If you have a bird that likes to chew and destroy his footwear, I would be wary of putting on in the cage. I know of other owners that purchase the ceramic heat emitters that are found in the reptile section of your petstore, and turn those on at night for their birds. The heat emitter does not emit light, only heat, making it ideal for night use. If you do choose to get a heat emitter, make sure that you buy the appropriate outfit for it, as you want to get a holder that has a ceramic base for the bulb to screw into. Otherwise you run a risk of fire as the heat emitter can get too hot to use in regular sockets.

Owners that keep their birds outdoors report the animals acclimating quickly to the outdoor temperatures. Aviaries make sure their birds have an indoor area to get away from the elements, as well as an outdoor flight for the birds to frolic. I’ve seen many pictures of cockatoos at the rescue Mollywood in Washington choosing to romp outdoors in the snow of their flights in the winter season. Birds can acclimate much easier to cold weather then they can to hot weather. If allowed to acclimate,its reported that they do extremely well in cooler temperatures. Your pet is hardier then you may think!

Oftentimes the subject of supplimental heat in the home, mainly spaceheaters, comes up as soon as the weather gets chilly. Bird owners trying to save money on heat always question the safety of heaters. Some well known brands of heaters can have teflon (PTFE) on them, so buying a safe heater can be a bit tricky if you don’t know the right questions to ask. From my experience, some options that are safe include the Optimus rotating oscillating heat fan, which the manufactuerers ensure has no PTFE on it. Some brands of ceramic heater are said to be safe as well. Among bird owners the favorite are the ‘radiator’ type of heaters that have oil components and no teflon.

Winter doesn’t have to be a stressful time, so kick back and relax! Be vigilant, and you and your feathered friends will get through another cold season comfortably warm and stress free.

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