Why your pet parrot, needs bird toys

Why Your Parrot Needs Bird Toys

Just like children, your birds / parrots can benefit from having and playing with toys! A baby bird that is busy with its bird toys is not eating your wood furniture or ripping your leather jacket that you left out. Toys can help sooth your birds chewing need and calm them while you are away. From bird swings, boings, shreddable toys to puzzles, there is a toy for every parrot.

Bird toys give your bird safe items to explore - birds seem to be fascinated with dangerous household items. When your bird(s) are attracted to items they should not have - giving them one of their toys is the PERFECT distraction. Give them lots of attention when they are playing with their toys. When your parrot is playing with an item that you do not want them to play with — ignore them! If you need to take away a forbidden item — do not give your bird any attention, simply take the item away (negative attention is attention in your birds mind). If your bird tries to entice you into a game of look-at-what-I-have-you -better-get-it-me try getting one of their toys and start playing with it. When they come to get their toy, that is a great time to use your Clicker Training System because that is the behavior that you want! Soon they will choose their toys over the other items that do not get them attention.

Birds benefit from being challenged. A bored parrot is going to find a way to entertain itself, maybe by eating your couch or re-wiring your tv/ stereo system! When you are shopping for bird toys make sure you get a variety of sounds, textures, and challenges. Some sound toys make noise when you bite them them, others when you shake them, others you just have to nudge — Baby, our sound loving blue and gold macaw, will work with a bird toy until he has figured out how to destroy it in the most effective way, or how to create the most noise. Chino, who is a Umbrella Cockatoo mix loves foraging bird toys. Chino have to figure out how to get puzzle toys apart, Chino loves to take the apart over, and over again.

Some Parrots just love destroying their toys. Just like the children who you give a new bike to, only to have them take it apart! Baby and Chino rarely take apart their toys; however, when they do the pieces (we call it a carcass) become treasured toys. You should see Chino prance around the play gyms, play stands carrying and shaking whats left of her bird toy.

If you need help selecting the right bird toy for your parrot, let us know — we are just an eMail away!

Toy Tips

* Foot and Beak Toys are great to help challenge your bird into a variety of agility skills while having fun and being entertained in multiple ways .

* Foraging Bird Toys are perfect to entertain your pet. They bring out the foraging / hunter instinct and can get that couch potato moving.

* When buying toys for your pet look for a variety of shapes, colors, sounds and textures. This will keep your bird(s) challenged and entertained.

* Puzzle Toys are meant to relieve boredom and entertain your pet parrot. These toys tend to hold their attention for long periods of time.

* If your pet is anxious when you are away try recording your voice - hearing you can calm your pet when you are away.

* When you get a new toy for your parrot - make sure you supervise them with it to make sure that it is safe for them. Every bird will respond to various types of toys differently.

* Try rotating your bird toys - have a few out at a time. You can also hide toys because a “found” toy is just so much fun!

Reccomended Online Bird Toy Retailers: http://www.BirdToys.com

Managing Chronic Egg-laying in your Pet Bird

by Dr. Anna Osofsky, DVM of Carrollton West Pet Hospital * (972)492-1828

Introduction:

Chronic egg-laying occurs when a bird lays more eggs than is normal during a given period of time; unfortunately, it is a common problem in pet birds. Although any species can be affected, it is most common in cockatiels, budgies, lovebirds, canaries and finches. Contrary to what many people think, birds can lay eggs without having a male available to mate with. Often, the bird perceives a person in the family or an object (such as a toy in their cage) to be her mate. Chronic egg-laying can lead to many severe medical problems such as egg-binding, egg-yolk collecting inside the abdomen, and fractured bones due to calcium loss. Because of these medical problems, it is important that we work together on reducing the number of eggs your bird lays.

What you can do at home:

There are many things that you can do at home to try to reduce the number of eggs your bird lays.

Removing any perceived mates: Birds will try to find ways to mimic their natural environments as much as possible; thus, they may try to find something to act as a mate whether one is available or not. Pet birds often consider one or more of the people in their family as a mate, toys or certain perches in the cage can act as stand-ins, and other birds in the household can, of course, be perceived mates. Try to remove contact with any perceived mates; for example, remove toys that your bird is mating with or reduce contact with the person the bird thinks of as a mate. Try to restrict petting to the bird’s head. Sometimes, the bird will masturbate on anything (food dishes, toys, perches etc), in which case it is impossible to remove perceived mates.

Removing any nesting material: If your bird is spending time at the bottom of the cage shredding newspapers or paper towels, these must be removed. Contact paper can be applied onto the bottom of the cage for easier daily cleaning of droppings and food. Newspaper or paper towels can be used when the bird is not trying to lay eggs. Nest boxes should only be provided when breeding is a goal.

Leaving eggs in the cage as long as the bird is interested in them: This will allow the bird to try to go through her normal behaviors after laying the eggs. If she is actively sitting on a clutch of eggs, she is less likely to continue laying. If her eggs keep being taken away, she may continue to lay eggs so that she can have something to sit on. If the bird has absolutely no interest in the eggs, they can be taken away. If your bird is sitting on the eggs at the bottom of the cage, make sure her food and water are easily accessible.

Decreasing day-length: Birds usually lay eggs when day-lengths are long (e.g. in the summer). By making your bird think it is winter, you may be able to reduce the number of eggs being laid. The bird should be kept in complete darkness for 14-16 hours a day (so only 8-10 hours of light); if any light is available during the dark period, this will not work. A walk-in closet or guest-bathroom may work best for providing complete darkness for this length of time. Some birds (e.g. cockatiels) breed during the rainy season and may initiate egg-laying when it is raining. Though we cannot control the rain, if you have a fountain near your bird or flowing water your bird can hear, this may increase her egg-laying.

Changing the environment: Birds need to feel secure to breed. If you can move your bird to a different place in the house and change her cage around a bit, you may make her feel insecure enough to stop laying eggs.

Nutrition:

In addition to trying to reduce the number of eggs laid, it is important to make sure your bird is on a good diet; an all seed diet increases the risk of egg-binding and fractured bones due to malnutrition. Ideally, we’d like small birds (cockatiels, lovebirds, and budgies) that are chronic egg-layers to have 50% of their diet be good quality seed and 50% be healthy fruits, veggies, and bird pellets. Larger birds should have no more than 10% of their diet consisting of seed. A cuttlebone should always be available to birds that are in lay so that they can increase their calcium intake in addition to what they receive in their regular diet.

Medical treatment:

Despite your best efforts, your bird may continue to be a chronic egg-layer even though you have followed all the recommendations for environmental changes. In these cases, or if your bird has become sick from egg-laying, medical treatments are needed.

Calcium supplementation: Egg-laying requires a HUGE amount of calcium, most of which is used to make the shell. Birds, especially those on an all seed diet, can quickly become calcium depleted, leading to serious medical problems. Thus, it can be helpful to supply additional calcium to your bird when she is actively laying. We can prescribe a calcium syrup that you can give to your bird via syringe once to twice a day or you can place the syrup in the water daily. Keep in mind that when your bird is NOT laying, the calcium supplementation should be stopped or it can potentially cause kidney problems in your bird.

Lupron injections: Lupron is a reproductive hormone that can be given to birds to stop egg-laying. It may initially cause an increase in reproductive behaviors but should then suppress them starting about 3 days after the injection. Each injection should last approximately one month, but the actual time may vary. Lupron does not work in every bird but it is quite safe and can be very effective. Lupron injections are moderately expensive but are an essential tool in treating birds with reproductive diseases. In addition, the injections may eventually stop working over time.

Surgical treatment: “Spaying” your bird is the most definitive way to stop egg-laying and it can be life-saving. However, there are downsides to this procedure. First, it can be costly. Second, there are significant surgical and anesthetic risks. Finally, at present when we “spay” a bird we only remove the oviduct and uterus and must leave the ovary in place. As a result, we estimate that in about 10% of birds, the ovary will continue to try to release eggs but they will have nowhere to go. These birds then have egg yolk in their abdomen and can become sick. This complication does not occur in most birds but it is important that you are aware of the risks.

When to call your veterinarian:

Chronic egg-laying can lead to many secondary health problems. Please contact us immediately if your bird has been trying to lay an egg for a prolonged period of time but has not been able to pass it, if your bird is not passing any droppings, if your bird is bleeding from the vent, if you notice tissue protruding from the vent, if your bird is lethargic, if your bird is sitting fluffed at the bottom of the cage, or if your bird is not eating well. Please also contact us (though it is not usually an emergency) if your bird’s eggs become soft-shelled or malformed as these can indicate problems to come. Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions about the information in this handout or concerns about your bird—and thank you for trusting us with the care of your special family member!

How to Introduce New Bird Toys or a Bird Harness

Have you ever wondered the best way to introduce a new toy to your parrot or how to get it used to wearing a bird harness? Many birds are afraid of new toys and other items in their environment, but this article offers some tips that should help.
Toy Introduction

Often if a bird is not initially enthusiastic about a new toy, I will play with it in front of him, or we will play with it together on the bed to spark interest in it.

When, on the other hand, I have birds that are afraid of new toys, I first hang them near the cage, then on the outside of the cage near the bottom. (Height is very important to birds and things are less threatening if they are “below” the bird.) Then it gradually gets moved up, and when I see them start to mess with it while it’s still hanging outside, I move it inside the cage. This avoids those “help it’s gonna KILL me!” panic reactions.

That reminds me of a funny story: One day at the clinic I casually tossed Buddy the Amazon a big chunk of broccoli out of my salad. He reacted by DIVING off of his perch and screeching at the big bad green broccoli monster from the opposite side of the cage, on the floor. Poor Buddy. I retrieved it, broke it into smaller pieces, and he ate it, but he will be teased about the killer broccoli forever more!
Introducing a Bird Harness to your Parrot

Harnesses: Disclaimer: This is just MY opinion and my experience, and I’m not responsible for anything if you try it!! I have a built-in dislike of anything that’s more expensive just because it’s labeled for birds. I buy rodent water bottles and dog rope toys because they are exactly the same thing and cheaper. Well, I noticed that the bird harnesses I saw bore an astonishing resemblance to the cat/iguana harnesses I had seen, so I bought the smallest figure-8 cat harness I could find and tried it.

It worked great for me, and here’s how I did it: Standing behind the bird, hold the harness in both hands by the “open” loop with the closed loop up and facing away from you. Slip the closed loop over the bird’s head, bringing the crossover point down to the back between the wings, then quickly bring both hands around below the wings. Then your hands (and the harness ends) come together under the bird’s belly, where you quickly slip the end into the buckle and fasten it. Then stand back and let the hissy fit ensue for a bit! I also let my birds play with the harness off and on for a few days, letting them see that it was a “harmless” object and become used to the sight and “feel” of it, before I ever tried to put it on them.

I have actually had them end up “hanging” in the harness, and seem quite comfortable except for wanting to grab something with their feet. BTW, because of the location of a bird’s windpipe, it’s almost impossible to “choke” them like you could a dog or cat - compression of the chest is the only thing that will interfere with their breathing.

Holiday Safety for Your Companion Bird - Part 3

Holiday Safety for Your Companion Bird

Guests mean snackies and the opportunity to wow your friends and families with cool new recipes. If you have an inquisitive parrot you may wish to stick to recipes that have all bird safe ingredients. Is there such a thing? Of course! Preparing food that pleases our family and guests and that is safe for our curious feathered friends means only a few minor adjustments.

Before you start planning, shopping and cooking, here are the key toxic foods that birds should not eat in any form (part of a recipe or as is):

* Avocado
* Chocolate
* Caffeine
* Alcohol

So champagne and chocolate truffles are definitely out if your parrot can get to them! The key is not leaving hazardous foods in the open with unattended birds. And guests must be clear on the house rule: no-one feeds the birds without your permission and presence.

Here are other are other topics to be aware of for companion bird safety:
Cooking

* The holiday season is the best time of year to get in the habit of cooking without your constant companion bird. The chances of injury are much higher with the increased activity in the kitchen preparing all those yummy goodies for your family and friends.
* Watch out for that inquisitive bird who may fly or jump right in the middle of what you are doing, whether it be simmering sauce, saut�ing scallions, or sieving spaghetti for an evening meal. Hot dishes, cooking pots and utensils, and hot foods present very real high risk burn hazards.
* Be careful of the type of cookware you use. Non-stick coatings, when heated, are very toxic to birds.
* Keep all hot foods covered with a lid. This prevents beak marks in the buns before they go on the table and prevents those beaks from getting into foods with potentially harmful ingredients and hot dishes with burn potential.

Fumes

Cooking pots and counter top appliances are two obvious sources of hazardous fumes.

Also consider:

* Self-cleaning oven fumes - highly toxic to birds - if you don’t want your bird inhaling them do you want to?
* Candles, incense, carpet fresheners, air fresheners, and room deodorizers - all contain one or both of scent oils and propellants that are very dangerous to the fragile respiration system of your bird.
* Cigarette, marijuana, pipe and cigar smoke - if second-hand smoke is bad for people, it’s worse for your birds.
* Microwave popcorn fumes - highly dangerous to the avian respiratory system.

If you want a festive spicy scent in the air for a gathering, consider a small simmering pot with herbs or spices such as rosemary, mint, lemon balm, cloves, whole allspice, or cinnamon stick. These are safe aromatic ingredients that can be simmered individually or in various combinations with lemon and or orange slices.

CAUTION: When using this method and these ingredients, be sure to keep an eye on the water level so the pot does not cook dry and burn. Automatic simmering pots for this purpose can be purchased in stores or online.
Kitchen Safety

Keep all drawers and cupboard and appliance doors closed at all times! Birds are very curious and if in nesting mode will gladly investigate open doors, drawers and anything else that looks cozy. Drawers may have sharp and pointy knives and utensils. Cupboards may have heavy, unstable stacks of food and cooking supplies or containers, bowls, pots and pans that can shift or tip.

If your bird is in the kitchen with you during food preparation, always be aware of its whereabouts. But for hygiene and safety reasons, it’s a good idea to keep your bird(s) out of the kitchen while preparing meals at all times of the year.

True Story: My beloved kakariki, Jade, rest her dear little soul, scared the “you know what”, out of me and my family one year. I had my parents in from Salmon, Arm, BC and my brother and his two sons from Calgary and Stone Plain, Alberta, respectively. Jade had diabetes and thus she was highly water dependent. She was also a female, hormonal, nesty little thing who loved dark corners and hidey holes.

It was Christmas Eve and we were sitting around watching a movie when I realized I hadn’t seen Jade for some time. The panic alarm was up and everyone was looking for Jade. I figured it had been at least a half hour since anyone had seen her.

We started the hunt. After 10 minutes of looking and calling, I thought that maybe she had gotten into an opened drawer and was shut in. Sure enough, I found her, weak and dehydrated in the bottom of the drawer unit in the kitchen.

Thankfully I worked, and still do, in a veterinary clinic for birds only and knew what to do for Jade; she had gone into diabetic shock before. This was very scary for all involved. My Mom got a crash course on how to hold a parrot steady for injections.

What started as a simple list of holiday hazards has turned out to be a multi-part series! In the next article, we’ll cover first aid for birds and a few other hazards that didn’t fall neatly into the first three parts.

Holiday Safety for Your Companion Bird - Part 2

Holiday Hazards to Parrots and Softbills - Part Two

With the holidays, out come our favourite decorations. But some seasonal decorations, plants, and gifts can pose hazards to our birds. Fortunately, with a little awareness and planning we can decorate safely and minimize risks to our parrots and softbills.

Here are decorative items to be careful with during the holiday season:
Trees

Use a Safe Tree of one of these types:

* Pine or Fir with short needles
* Soft-needled artificial trees (soft as in nylon fabric or flexible plastic needles)

Do not use these unsafe natural and artificial trees:

* Spruce - very pitchy branches and needles - pitch may get stuck to feathers if your bird decides to play “Partridge in a Pear Tree” for you
* Artificial trees with metallic needles interspersed with fabric or plastic needles - metallic needles may contain heavy metals and if ingested can cause metal poisoning, gastro-intestinal (GI) tract irritation and the biggest concern - GI tract obstruction

Avoid these trees:

* Any long needle natural tree such as scotch pine - long needles pose puncture hazard for your tropical and jungle flying friend who may not have the flying or landing dexterity of their free flying mates in the wild.

Household Decorations

Many decorations on the tree and around the house can be hazardous to your inquisitive flying beak.

Here are a few items to be careful with:
Electrical Hazards - Lights and Cords

With the holidays come extra lights. New compact lights are less of a heat source and burn hazard than old style lights but with any lights comes the danger of chewed electrical cords.

Be sure your birds are monitored at all times while out and about in areas with seasonal lighting and exposed extension cords.

Try to hide, cover and conceal extension cords, lighting cords and tree lights from inquisitive beaks
Other Decorations

* Decorations like angel hair may be made of fibreglass and very dangerous when ingested.
* Minimize use of spray on snow. If you must use spray on snow on the windows, keep your birds well away while doing so.
* Many spray on products use Freon as a propellant. Curious birdies may want to taste the white stuff so be very vigilant while your birds are out and have access to spray on decorations.

Glass and metal decorations and lighting on the tree can be very alluring to your pet. But the materials can be unsafe so be sure not to let birds use them as toys.

* Metal ornaments may contain metals that are harmful if chewed and ingested.
* Do a thorough cleanup if glass ornaments get broken. The sharp edges on fragments can cause cuts, both internally and externally.
* Christmas light strings on the tree are another chewing hazard. Be watchful at all times when your bird is out near the tree, or in the tree.

Gifts and Wrapping

Safe Gift Wrap Options

Recycle, reuse…Well two out of three is pretty good. Unprinted newsprint makes a great gift wrap. Some of the best things come in a plain brown wrapper!

Save and reuse gift wrap from different occasions throughout the year as well as saved Christmas wrap from previous years. Focus on non-glossy, non-metallic papers.

Avoid coloured tissue paper which may contain heavy metals. If ingested, the paper may cause metal poisoning, GI tract irritation or GI tract obstruction.

Use small stick on bows. These are very pretty, hang very short ends and pose less of a threat to your curious bird.

Unsafe Gift Wrapping

Avoid coloured metallic gift wrap which may contain heavy metals. Be very careful of long curly ribbon. Many birds love shiny things and my become tangled in long, loose ribbons on packages when trying to see what Santa left under the tree for them.
Plants

This time of year many visitors and guests will present their hosts with a lovely seasonal plant. Be aware of plants that can pose a threat to your companion bird. Play it safe, keep your beloved birdies away from these plants:

* Poinsettia - the milky substance in the stems can by irritating to the oral cavity, eyes, and gastro-intestinal (GI) tract.
* Christmas Cactus - oral and GI tract irritant
* Holly berries - GI tract irritant
* Mistletoe berries - highly toxic when ingested

The list of hazards may seem long, but plenty of safe options are available, so bird-safe decorating need not put a crimp in your holiday style. Have a great Holiday Season!

Holiday Safety for Your Companion Bird - Part 1

Holiday Safety for Your Companion Bird
Holiday Hazards to Parrots and Softbills - Part One

Now that Hallowe’en and Thanksgiving are past it’s time to start thinking about the holidays. There is plenty to look forward to!

Holidays mean fun, friends, social gatherings, festivities and, for our feathered friends, hazards.

The increased activities around the Holidays can be stressful for our feathered friends. Be very aware of how your birds react to guests and how guests react to your fids, (feathered kids).

Things to be very aware of with Guests and Visitors:

* Make sure all guests and friends of guests know to not feed your birds unless you are in the room - this lets you be in control of what and how much is being given to your bird as a snack.
* Observe each bird’s reaction to and behavior with newcomers and visa versa. If a bird shows signs of distress with certain individuals, it’s best to move the bird to a quiet room where it will not be bothered by people and is away from people noise. Also be aware that not everyone is comfortable near birds, especially larger ones with big voices and birds who take flight suddenly.
* If you can’t supervise your guests around your bird, it may be best to move your bird to another room away from the noise, confusion and potentially dangerous interactions.
* Always be in attendance when the children of guests are around your bird. Sudden movements, loud noises, and attempts to touch or handle can bring on defensive behavior and potential for injury to both bird and child.
* Having strangers handle your bird can be a very valuable socializing tool and exciting for your guests. But interaction with strangers can also be a stressful experience. To avoid a bad experience for your bird and your guests, allow your bird to be handled only when you are present and after appropriate instruction has been given to the novice handler.

Birds are adaptable creatures and don’t need to be totally sheltered from the flow of daily life which includes unfamiliar people visiting. Just keep an eye on the situation and don’t let the higher traffic in your home during the holidays overwhelm your birds.

Have a great Holiday Season!

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How to Find the Best Cage for a Cockatiel

Introduction:

Since your cockatiel spend a lot of time in its camp, it’s important that you choose a camp sensation who will make your pet comfortable and secure.

Steps

Step One

For the bird is important to have plenty of room for moving inside. So you should find a cage large enough enabling your bird to spread its wings without any effort or hitting the cage’s sides.

Step Two
Find a square cage which provides the bird safeness and the opportunity to nest in the corners.

Step Three
Avoid bird cages that are rounded where bars bend to the gathering at the center - the toes or the tip of bird are getting caught in this task.

Step Four
If you want a cage that could be easy to clean and looking nice, you should look for a cage with plastic bars.

Step Five
If you consider buying a block bird cage with welded wires that will be the less expensive option. But you should know that in this case you must use vinegar and water for cleaning the bird cage and removing all the excessive zinc to prevent the bird poisoning.

Step Six
Make sure bars of the cage are not more than 3 / 4 of an inch distant in order to avoid your bird’s head to be stuck between the bars.

Step Seven
Bird Cage door should be big enough so you may stick your hand, with the bird perched on it, inside the cage as it is not necessary your bird to hang down.

Step Eight
Bird cage is good to be equipped with several perches and toys to keep your bird busy and having entertainment. For the purpose of that the cage height should be at least 16 inches for establishing two levels for the perches.

Step Nine
We advise you to find a bird cage that is wider than high cage because birds are used to pass most of their time on the ground floor.

Step Ten
It is more comfortable for your cockatiel and of course more pleasant for the eye if the bird cage is provided with a grid on the bottom for keeping the bird away from its droppings.

Tips & Warnings
• Place the bird cage in occupied room where people pass along regularly, as cockatiels are used to be in the middle of a gang.
• Make sure the bird cage is placed out of direct sunlight and any drafts or smokes.

How to Buy a Bird Cage

Now that you’ve decided to give a home to a feathered friend, you must choose a bird cage. Take into consideration the safety, health and growth and development of your bird when checking out the available options. Choosing the right cage is not difficult when you follow these guidelines.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Step1
Purchase a relatively large cage for your bird. Make sure the bars of the cage are suitable for your type of bird. Smaller birds need bars spaced closer together to prevent their going AWOL.

Step2
Select a cage that is wide enough for your bird. Birds tend to fly around and not so much up and down. Taller birds need taller cages, but width should still be a factor in your selection.

Step3
Choose a cage made of stainless steel rather than plastic. Steel bird cages last longer and are more durable than plastic or cheap wire cages.

Step4
Select a bird cage that offers a pull-out tray for easy cleaning. Also make sure the door of the cage allows for easy removal of seed trays and water dishes.

Step5
Look for bird cages that have perches located near your bird’s food and water. Make sure the perches are suitable for your type of bird. Small clawed birds require smaller-diameter perches.

Step6
Bring your new bird cage home and let your feathered friend stretch his wings in comfort.

Travel Cages A Must Have!

This past year, I packed up and moved across country with a flock of five parrots. It was a three thousand mile trip, and a very eye opening experience! I learned the importance of a good travel carrier, and realized how many questions there are about appropriate carriers, so I decided to write a short article detailing the important aspects of a good carrier.

A travel carrier is an essential accessory for a bird owner. Whether it be car trips, road trips, or traveling by plane, your bird will need a comfortable and safe way to travel with you. Travel carriers do not need to be as big as your birds regular cage, but should be large enough for the bird to fit comfortably and move around a bit. Keep in mind the duration your bird will be in the carrier- for a shorter day trip, a smaller carrier is fine. For a longer trip that the bird will spend one or more days in, a larger carrier is recommended.

Types of Carriers

Depending on what type of travel you plan, there are many types of carriers available for your use. Airline approved carriers are a must for flight. Commonly used carriers include cat and dog carriers, modified to hold a perch and food dishes. There are bird specific carriers available, including collapsible wire carriers with grates and locking trays, or heavy duty stainless steel carriers available for those with big beaks. For shorter travels, there are hand held carriers that have a mesh front, suitable for smaller birds going on short trips that aren’t apt to chew. Whatever your desire, there is a model available that will suit you and your bird. I personally chose a wire knockdown model, that allowed the carriers to be stored easily when not in use. A great space saver!

Setting up the Travel Carrier

Choose a perch that will provide firm footing for your bird. Stay away from slick woods like manzanita, and go more towards perches such as rope.I recommend perches like grapevine, cholla, or rope that will allow your bird to have a good grip. A perch should be installed towards the front of the carrier, to accomodate the birds tail and in case of a suddent stop, the bird will not be thrown forward, but will be able to lean forward and grab the front of the carrier. When choosing a toy for the carrier, choose one made out of soft material, or preferably a side mount toy so that it does not move  when the vehicle is in motion.

Getting Ready to Go

Your bird should be comfortable and used to his carrier before any long trip. Putting his favorite toy and treats in the carrier will help put him at ease. Once he is used to his carrier, its advisable to take the bird on several short trips, prior to the real trip. This will let you see how the bird reacts to the carrier, and also to the trip. It is not uncommon for some parrots to experience car sickness, like my greencheek conure. If your bird does exhibit car sickness, there are several things you can do to help ease the effects including: covering the carrier, trying the carrier in both the back and front (safely buckled in) seats of the car, and if all else fails, shredded ginger root prior to the trip will help ease any stomach upset.

Be sure to always secure your birds carrier with a seatbelt or other device. Like little children, a bird in a front seat could be vulnerable to injury if there was an accident and air bags were deployed.

Also be sure to bring adequate food and water for your feathered companion. It is recommended that juicy fruit, or an icecub, takes the place of water on a short journey, as the bird will still recieve necesarry liquids without worry of water spilling. On extended travels, your bird will need out of cage time, so a portable playgym or T-stand is recommended. There are several models available that break down, making it easy for you to carry.

Before vacation day, it is recommended that you make sure your bird has been properly groomed. While articles say that your bird requires a health certificate before any travel, this is largely untrue. If you are driving with your pet, you will not need to provide proof of health inside the US. If you are flying or traveling by other means, it is required that you have a recent (within 30 day) health certificate for all animals. If your bird is fully flighted, a harness for the journey is necessary to ensure your bird will not escape. I peronally chose to clip all my birds prior to travel, as I wanted to be able to grab them quickly without worrying about putting on a harness in an emergency.

Always keep safety in mind while traveling. Keep your bird in the carrier while the vehicle is in motion. Climate and altitude changes can affect your pet, so be sure to have weather conditions checked ahead of time. Its best to avoid crowds, and never let your bird out of your site. It is also advised to reserve your hotel ahead of time, so that you can be sure the place you rest is pet friendly. I found that Drury Suites Hotels were very accomodating and pet friendly.

It is also recommended that you bring along emergency contact numbers of both petsitters and your avian vet. Carry your avian first aid kit, in case of an accident. Documents such as proof of ownership, breeders name/address, medical records, and a recent photo of your bird is recommended. Some owners have taken a further step and also microchipped their avian companions. If you have done this, be sure to have the chips information in a safe place, and take it on your travels. The chance that you will need all this documentation and information is slim, however, the information would prove invaluable in case of an emergency.

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